July 17 – July 22: Seward to Homer

Friday in Seward

View from our front window at our site in Seward
We are still parked right on the water in Seward with light rain all night and the clouds blocking out the mountains across the Bay. The rain must be keeping down the number of charter fishing boats going out, but there is a mid-size cruise ship in port.

After lunch, welcome blue breaks in the sky began to appear and even an occasional ray of sun. We walked along the Bay down to a wonderful restaurant on the small boat harbor. The locally caught  salmon and halibut was fabulous. Walking along the harbor, we watched the guys speed clean and fillet the salmon and halibut that was caught on the fishing charters, then they package it up and ship it home for the folks. A great dinner and the weather is better – a good day.  
Those few rays finally did lead to some blue skies

Saturday in Seward

We woke to mostly cloudy skies, but no rain and there were lots of boats heading out this morning, but today being Saturday, it looked like a lot of the boats were personal fishing boats. We checked out the local downtown that is known for its small-town homey feel with many murals. 
Early morning
Cruise ship in port


Downtown Seward
Seward's Unique library

We stopped at the library for their WiFi - an interesting building...


We went to the Sea Life Center Aquarium. It was a modern, great facility – the displays were wonderful and the variety of sea life was broad. The tanks were not as large as the Charleston Aquarium, but we thoroughly enjoyed it, especially the seals and the puffins.  




We then drove the dirt road heading south of Seward to Lowell Point. 
Small waterfall on Lowell Point Road
First we stopped at a State Park where I did a nice 4 mile hike through the boreal forest to a point where a river enters Destruction Bay. I saw two bald eagles and I grabbed my nice new telephoto lens, only to find I had no camera. Duh, duh, duh. The stream was loaded with salmon going upstream to spawn. Lots of raspberries along the trail and salmon in the stream---I talked a lot to all the bears that may have been watching and carried my bear spray right in my hand instead of a holster....

Returning from Lowell Point, we spotted a few houses that looked to be vacation homes that had really unique shingle siding.


Driving back from the point along the bay, we spotted an otter in the water. He wasn't moving at all, but drifting on his back – obviously taking a much-needed nap. Another couple came up and used a unique way to get close-up photos from above – a drone! 
  Great day.

Sunday, Seward to Cooper Landing

We woke to mostly sunny skies. Watched the boats heading out in droves and another cruise ship is in port. We packed up the RV, and drove to Exit Glacier. We took a short walk to a view of the glacier, and I tried to hike across the outwash to get to the toe of the glacier, but the river was running too strong to cross it and had to abandon getting right up close to the glacier. 
Closeup of the glacier ice


We next stopped at a salmon weir where we watched them jumping the small falls upstream and then headed north on the Seward Highway. We are returning north the same way we came, but now the weather is great, so I was able to stop at many of the scenic viewpoints for photos.  


Lily pad Lake



About 35 miles north, we took the Sterling Highway west where we saw miles and miles of traffic heading in the opposite direction. They were fishermen leaving the huge salmon fishing areas back to Anchorage and beyond after a weekend of fishing. Alaskans are allowed to dipnet salmon from mid-July to July 31 and can harvest 25 per household. They simply put these gigantic nets in the water near the mouths of streams and the fish swim into them! We stopped at a national forest campground with nice sites, but no services and filled with fisherpeople. I doubt we would have gotten a spot anywhere in the area had we been here on the weekend.

Monday: Cooper Landing to Sterling

One of the many lakes

We drove through the Russian River famous fishing area with fisherpeople everywhere – most in various forms of RVs, but most were truck campers. We took a dirt road that mostly parallels the Sterling Highway, but heads deeper into the Kenai National Wildlife area. The road was the worst we have been on with lots of washboard, but we found a small, shallow lake that was perfect for our kayak. The temps were around 70, no wind – perfect! I spent the afternoon enjoying a couple of tours around the lake, along with a pair of trumpeter swans. We were lucky and got a site at another national forest campground, again it was filled with fisher people. 
Another lake along this terrible dirt road

Kayak Ready!




Tuesday: Sterling to Captain Cook State Park

Our original plan was to spend a day or so roaming around the close-by towns of Kenai and Soldotna, so we called ahead for a campground, but there were no spots available. The Kenai river that runs through here is another impossibly popular fishing river when the salmon are running. So, we decided to head north on a side road up west side of the Kenai peninsula to Captain Cook State Park.

We stopped at a wood carving place with a great sense of humor.
 We then headed north on the Kenai Spur road to the end of the road at Captain Cook Sate Park.
The park is on a bluff overlooking the Cook Inlet and we got a nice site among waist high wildflowers (pink fireweed and white cow parsnip).
 I took a hike along the bluff at low tide with mudflats and rocks below and snow-covered mountains (active volcanoes in the “ring of fire” grouping) across the inlet. A beautiful, rugged coastline that reminded me of Oregon and Maine.


The cloudy skies are mostly hiding the snow covered mountains across Cook Inlet


A pleasant, quiet night, but tomorrow we NEED to find a campground with services as we need fresh water and some electricity.


Wednesday: Captain Cook State Park south to Homer

Rain today and it is forecast to last all day. We headed back south, stopped at the visitor center in Kenai that had some fabulous displays about wildlife and native Alaskans that have lived here since the “salt was added to the sea.” The Russians were the first white men to inhabit this area and the old town's Russian Orthodox Church and chapel were picturesque. 

 We drove south on the west side of the Kenai Peninsula to just north of Homer where we have a site with full hookups overlooking the Inlet. Unfortunately, the sporadic rain and low clouds are preventing us enjoying the views, but tomorrow is forecast to be better and hoping to see more views like the one below.

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