Crossing the Mackinac Bridge into the Upper Peninsula and driving north, we finally got our first glimpse of Lake Superior at Whitefish Point on the northeast coast.
We got super lucky with a campsite at Tahquamenon Falls State Park for the weekend. Before settling in, we drove to Whitefish Point, AKA "Graveyard of the Great Lakes" to visit the Shipwreck Museum. There have been more than 6,000 shipwrecks of this coast since the 1800s and the museum told the stories of the major shipwrecks here, the most famous being The Edmund Fitzgerald of Gordon Lightfoot fame (you're already humming it, right?).
They had a very emotional video about the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald in 1975 with interviews of the families of the 29 men who went down with the ship. In 1975, they brought up the original bell from the Edmund Fitzgerald and replaced it with a bell engraved with the names of the deceased. Although the wreck happened only 15 miles from here, it is in Canadian waters. It is now protected by the Canadian government and preserved as a burial site (similar to Pearl Harbor), but there is no way to visit it.
Whitefish Point had a lighthouse and a lifesaving group (a sort of forerunner to the Coast Guard). Many of the wrecks happened close to shore, but the water was so cold that just a few minutes in the water would cause hypothermia and result in death. The lifesavers would use a canon to fire a lifeline to the ship, then use a fancy set of pullies and winches to bring the stranded sailors to shore, without touching the water. Quite ingenious for the 1800's!
We toured the buildings they had there, including the lightkeepers home, a radio building and our first view of Lake Superior.
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Wooden rudder of an old ship |
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Lake Superior with one of the giant ships in the distance (many carrying iron ore) |

After our visit to the museum, we drove back down the peninsula to our campground at the State Park to settle in. The next morning, Beau and I took a long walk (almost 5 miles) along the Lower Falls of the Tahquanenon River. Not spectacularly high, but definitely impressive. The brown pitch color is from the tanins in the evergreen trees.
For lunch, we drove to a brewery within the State Park for a pastie (the 'a' is a 'short a' like patsy). These were the iconic lunches for the miners, most from Cornwall. They are beef, potatoes, and vegetables encased in a pie type pastry crust that they would eat them like a sandwich. Jack and I split one, using forks and knives, and it was good, but Jack thought a bit bland. Duh, traditional English food!
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A Pastie served with a side of gravy. |
After lunch, Beau and I walked to the Upper Falls - considered the second largest (not tallest) waterfall east of the Mississippi. We didn't explore further because it required going down more than 90 corrugated steel steps that would not have been good for Beau's paw pads, but I did get this photo from up top at a distance. Not to mention, the only return is back up the 90 steps.
Tomorrow we are taking a cruise to see the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore....